Provence Wine – Bastide du Claux, Luberon
Ever enthusiastic our wine critic Perestrello Geller seeks out the best Provence wine.
I’ve been known to bore people with descriptions of my perfect vineyard. The wine estate I would create, if I had the knowledge.
Let’s start with the vigneron, ruling myself out through age, what I would need is somebody with a Burgundy background. Bordeaux’s full of too many big chateaus and too much technology. For a real hands-on vigneron therefore it’s a Burgundy background, I need. Somebody from the land of the divided estate where tiny parcels of vines are combined to create magnificent wines. This is where viticultural expertise is learnt.
Next the location. It can’t be Burgundy. Too expensive, too assured of its own status, and above all too rainy. No give me a vineyard in the sunshine of Provence, in the Luberon preferably, with sweeping views, and a terroir that has long laboured under an inferiority complex.
And the vineyard? It’s a personal thing but I don’t like these big tourist places with their flash tasting rooms, I like to smell the bubbling fermentation in the cave and see the dirt under the nails of the vigneron. In short I want to be as close as possible to the wine making process. And that means no more than 20 hectares.
The wine – finesse and elegance, but also depth and that elusive ability for the flavour to cling to the roof of the mouth. Red, white and pink of course would be produced so that I would have a wine for every occasion.
Enter Sylvain Morey of Bastide du Claux. Here’s a man who has created the vineyard and provence wine of my dreams. He’s the son of a Burgundy wine maker, transplanted to Provence to find his fortune. A man who has created rather than bought a vineyard, first renting and then purchasing parcels of land between Cucuron and Pertuis. By doing so he has given himself a palette of different varieties and ages of grapes to work with.
Sylvain is so hands on that the vineyard can’t open all the time to the public. Instead you need to phone in advance and have a genuine interest in the wines, rather than the casual curiousity of a summer tourist on a rainy day. Those who really wish to explore the provence wines on offer, will be rewarded with a very personal tasting experience. Prices for the eight or so different wines on offer range from 8 to 12 euros. All display an elegance and lightness of touch which makes them stand out among Luberon and Provence wines.
For a visit call 04 90 77 70 26.
Provence Guru – The Insiders’ Guide to Provence, top tips
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